Hot4s issue 145 - December 2006

thx to Jun Sawa for these great photos...

COMPLETED [MERAH]

some ppl might know it already.... but i guess its about time for me to post about it

mazda3 SP23 has been a great car too me.... its just the gearbox and the engine mounts problem that happened more than once.... i just dont want to wait for the next time it happens again... so i decided to fix everything then sell it...

at the moment has been returned to stock form and most of the parts has been sold....

FINAL SPEC: MERAH
march2004 - august2006



PERFORMANCE

0-100km/h (sec):
6.7 sec (tested with G-Tech, mod: header, intake, catback)

BEST QUARTER – MILE:
15.07sec @ 108.88* mph on Heathcote Raceway. (mod: header, intake, catback)

BEST TRACK RESULT:
1:51.5 at Winton Raceway long track (3km)
Mod: bridgestone RE070, coilover, intake, catback, F&R strurt and sway bars
Haven’t done one with the current mods

POWER OUPUT:
109.7KW ATW @ 6900 RPM (mod: header, intake, catback) @ Dynamic Dyno.
DYNO PLACE / CONTACT WORKSHOP & NAME: Pro-Tek automotive: 03 9484 3117

*the trap speed on my best run is inaccurate. my other run on that day only ranging from 97-100mph

AUXILIARY PARTS

ECU: Microtech LT10 (in development)
AIR FILTER: AEM cold air intake
EXHAUST PIPE: 2.5inch mandrel bent
MUFFLERS: Magnaflow with 4inch Aluminium SE Magnaflow tip
EXHAUST MANIFOLD: Custom 4 – 1 setup. 1 7/8inch primary & 2.5inch collector. Ceramic coated
OTHER: Oil Catch Tank


TRANSMISSION

FLYWHEEL: EXEDY lightweight
CLUTCH PLATE: MAZDASPEED
PRESSURE PLATE: MAZDASPEED
GEARBOX FITTING/MODS (in progress):
- MTX75 conversion
- Torsen 1.5 LSD
- 4.06 final drive
- Nitride Treatment
- TWM short shifter
- Redline MT90
- Billet Driveshaft
- Custom mounts
- Adapter plate

HANDLING AND SUSPENSION

COILOVERS: TEIN Superstreet (front 45 mm rear 40mm)
FRONT SWAYBAR: AUTOEXE 22mm
REAR SWAYBAR: AUTOEXE 22mm
FRONT STURT BAR: AUTOEXE Front 3 points
REAR STURT BAR: AUTOEXE Rear 4 points Sturt Bar
ENGINE MOUNT: AWR rear Engine mount
OTHER: TEIN Electronic Damping Force Controller


BRAKES - FRONT

CALIPER:
WILWOOD 6 piston calipers - Forged SuperLite

ROTOR:
HD 13" x 1.1" wide, vented, directional rotors.
Gas slotted, zinc plated.
Aluminum rotor hats.
Steel mounting brackets.

PADS:
Wilwood BP10 pads.

OTHER
Stainless steel braided hoses.


BRAKES - REAR

CALIPER:
Stock BK3P rear caliper

ROTOR:

Direct replacement 11.75" non vented rotor for stock caliper, retaining parking brake.
Gas slotted and zinc plated.
Aluminum rotor hats.
Steel Caliper mounting brackets.

PADS:
EBC Green stuff

OTHER
Stainless steel braided hoses.


WHEELS & TYRES

STREET:
WHEEL BRAND: KYOYA MODEL: CE28 copy
DIAMETER & WIDTH (FRONT & REAR): 18x7.5 +42
TYRE BRAND (FRONT & REAR): Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3
SIZE: 225/40/18

TRACK:
WHEEL BRAND: ROTA MODEL: ??
DIAMETER & WIDTH (FRONT & REAR): 17x7 +40
TYRE BRAND (FRONT & REAR): Bridgestone RE070
SIZE: 225/45/17


EXTERIOR BODYWORK

‘Carbon Products’ – Vented Carbon Fibre Bonnet
Custom Bonnet paint
Valiant Front Lip
Valiant Front Grill
Valiant Rear Roof Spoiler
Custom paint Engine cover


OTHER BODY MODS:
JDM slimline Visor
Satin Fuel Door
SUNROOF - Webasto Holandia 700


INTERIOR

SEATS: WRX 2004 conversion Seats
PEDALS: RAZO – G speed 4 Piece
MISC:
Pivot 3 stages Shiftlight
DIY painted interior plastic stripe
DIY painted Caliper
DIY Painted engine cover
DIY center dash 3 gauges holder
Door sills
Leather shift boot cover

yay! 90% completed... MERAH is almost complete

FINALLY.... MERAH is running again... habbah habbah.... few minor things to do still.... replace the driveshaft and fix the door... but apart from that, the car is running and test drove it with desmond few days ago, and it was fine, except ofcourse the driveshaft grinding....

updates on MERAH:

progress: 90%
Duration: 24 hours (5 nights)

night 14 (3 hours)

1. install stock front sway bar
   
2. putting the engine back in the engine bay
   
3. install all engine mounts
   

night 15 (4 hours)

1. repositioned the engine to sit correctly
   
2. install stock header
   
3. install fan shroud
   
4. install stock header
   
5. install catback
   

night 16 (5 hours)

1. rewire everything back
   
2. reconnect all the hoses including fuel line
   
3. install battery holder
   
4. install plastic front cowl
   
5. install the AC compressor and belt
   
6. fill the coolant tank
   

night 17 (5 hours)

1. install suspension and control arm
   
2. return the caliper and rotor to stock
   
3. install the driveshaft back
   
4. install headlight
   

night 18 (7 hours)

1. install the seats back
   
2. compress the rear brake caliper piston
   
3. bleed the clutch
   
4. bleed the brake
   
5. install the interior trim back
   
6. return the hood to stock
   
7. refit the bumper
   
8. refit the wheels
   
9. test drive! wohooo... wash the car too
   

the next day, i was driving to thao's work place and the drive shaft came loose... lol.... oh well, as long as i dont drive over 60kmh, its fine....

thx to: kenny/kthl, mark/cully5, jason/unco, desmond/nismo14 for the help and the support.... as i always said.... i couldn't have completed it without any help from all of you.... thx guys...

damage report during the process: snapped brake hose, rear brake piston dust seal, crank sensor, drive shaft clip....

another progress - 60% completed

sorry guys, i've been abit busy lately.... i'll try to finish and get back as soon as possible....

updates on MERAH:

progress: 60%
Duration: 32 hours (9 nights)

night 5 (3 hours)

1. take off the left drive shaft
   
2. take off the left coilover
   
3. take off the left endlink
   
4. take off the left braided hose line
   

night 6 (3 hours)

1. take off rear engine mount
   
2. take off headers and O2 sensor
   
3. take off 2 underbody braces
   
4. take off exhaust connection
   

night 7 (4 hours)

1. take off all the wiring and loom
   
2. take off main switch
   
3. take off the radiator mount
   
4. take off fan shroud
   
5. take off coolant reserve tank
   
6. take off the hoses
   
7. take off fan shroud
   
8. take off shifter cable
   

night 8 (6 hours)

1. take off the right drive shaft
   
2. take off the right coilover
   
3. take off the right endlink
   
4. take off the right braided hose line *broke it *
   
5. take off the joint shaft bracket
   
6. take off the radiator main hose
   
7. take off the main engine mount
   
8. lift off the engine and gearbox... FINALLY....
   

night 9 (2 hours)

1. disconnect all gearbox wiring
   
2. take off the starter motor and wiring brackets
   
3. take off the gearbox
   
4. take off the clutch
   

night 10 (4 hours)

1. take off flywheel
   
2. install stock flywheel and clutches
   
3. take off the right swing arm
   
4. take off the front sway bar
   
5. take off the rear sway bar
   
6. take off the 3 autogauge
   
7. take off the jointshaft from gearbox
   

night 11 (4 hours)

1. take off the WRX seats
   
2. take off unco's seats
   
3. install WRX seats to his car
   
4. take off rear sturt bar
   
5. take off the seatbelt harness
   

night 12 (2 hours)

1. install front swaybar
   
2. install the gearbox
   

night 13 (4 hours)

1. degrease and clean the engine bay
   
2. thighten all gearbox bolt
   
3. install starter motor
   
4. install gearbox wiring
   
5. install joint shaft n bracket
   

thx to: jason/unco, kenny/kthl, mark/cully5 for the help and company.... much appreciated.... special thx for irawan/visage for the help and supervision... without you, i will never get those driveshaft and hoses out! geeeez.... thx man....

can wait to finish it.... this things supposed to take far less amount of time... but i'm not a mechanic and this is my first time pulling car appart.... the hardest part is about to come.... putting everything back together...

oh well... wish me luck...

few pics of the process

so here is the handsome gearbox, the famous MTX75 with 4.06 final drive... woohooo...


here is the pics of my intake *jase, i dont thing you would want it anymore * it got dent in it caused by hitting the chasis when the engine dropped on angle


the hole one the gearbox is cause by the engine mount... the mount actually holding at where the hole at


and this is the poor engine mount snapped into 3 pieces... the other pieces still stuck on the gearbox....


the right driveshaft also broken and get pulled off from the connector boot when the engine mount snapped....


hanging by the crane

healing process begins

refunded the ford shifter... i found a way to just use and modify the mazda3 shifter.... all i need is a welder....

anyway.... updates on MERAH:

progress: 10%
Duration: 14 hours (4 nights)

night 1 (2 hours)

1. Received the engine crane from Adelaide
   
2. assemble the crane base and wheels
   

night 2 (4 hours)

1. assemble the crane top
   
2. assemble the engine stand
   

night 3 (4 hours)

1. Jack up the car, hold the car with axle stand
   
2. take of all the wheels
   
3. take off the front bumper
   
4. take off the hood
   
5. use the crane to lift the engine abit and hold it (2 out of 3 engine mounts are broken, so engine was on angle)
   
6. take off the intake pipe
   
7. take off the oil catch can
   

night 4 (4 hours)

1. take off the 2 main fuel lines
   
2. take off the strut bar
   
3. take off the wiper and plastic cowl
   
4. take off the battery and ECU
   
5. take off the accelerator cable and cruise control
   
6. take off the under body splash guard
   
7. take off TOP LEFT engine mount (it was in pieces)
   

thx to: mark/cully5 for sitting around, smoking, finish my coke and calling me stoopid... jk bro.... thx for the help...

shifting mechanism and research update

UPDATE:

i had to use ford focus shifter mechanism and shifter cable

mazda3 1st, 3rd, 5th gear => "push" mechanism
mazda3 2nd, 4th, reverse => "pull" mechanism

but for ford focus is the other way around....

MTX75 gearbox with ford focus shifter... it will be 1-3-5 push in.... but MTX75 gearbox with mazda3 shifter will be 1-3-5 pull in...

REASON:

Ford focus shifter -> the 'shift' point is under the center pivot ball

so when you push the stick forward... everything under the center pivot ball move backward... so the shift point actually pulling the cable to enter 1st gear....

and the MAZDA3 shifter -> the 'shift' point is above the center pivot ball.... so when you push the stick forward.... the 'shift' point which is above the center pivot point also move forward....


so if i use mazda3 shifter on ford MTX75 gearbox, i will get this pattern:
2 4 R
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
1 3 5

lol its kinda cool but its gonna be hard to get used to....


probably its best to explain it with this pics....






so i have to use ford focus shifter.... and im searching for it atm....

gear ratio comparison

i got this Gear Ratio Calculator from QUAIFE and calculated the stock Mazda3 gearbox and the stock Ford Focus gearbox... the comparison is based on my 18 daily driven wheel and 7000rpm shift point....


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gearbox:- G35M-R (mazda3)
Tyre:- 225/40/18
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st - 3.307
2nd - 1.842
3rd - 1.310
4th - 0.970
5th - 0.755
Reverse - 3.166
Final drive - 4.388
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top Gear gives 36.254 KPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 253.779 KPH at 7000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
40 KPH = 1103 RPM 50 KPH = 1379 KPM 60 KPH = 1655 RPM 80 KPH = 2207 RPM
100 KPH = 2758 RPM 110 KPH = 3034 RPM 130 KPH = 3586 RPM 160 KPH = 4413 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 57.939 KPH
And changes into 2 gear at 3899 RPM dropping 3101 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 104.019 KPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4978 RPM dropping 2022 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 146.262 KPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5183 RPM dropping 1817 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 197.529 KPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5448 RPM dropping 1552 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 253.779 KPH
******************************************************************************************




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gearbox:- MTX75 (ford focus)
Tyre:- 225/40/18
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st: 3.42
2nd: 2.14
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.03
5th: 0.77
Final Drive: 4.06
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top Gear gives 38.570 KPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 269.991 KPH at 7000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
40 KPH = 1037 RPM 50 KPH = 1296 KPM 60 KPH = 1556 RPM 80 KPH = 2074 RPM
100 KPH = 2593 RPM 110 KPH = 2852 RPM 130 KPH = 3370 RPM 160 KPH = 4148 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 60.604 KPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4376 RPM dropping 2624 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 96.949 KPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4745 RPM dropping 2255 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 143.013 KPH
And changes into 4 gear at 4970 RPM dropping 2030 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 201.442 KPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5223 RPM dropping 1777 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 269.991 KPH
******************************************************************************************


atm the MTX75 is shorter ratio, which what i want, but the final drive is too low.... which make the top speed too high....

i dont really need top speed. this is why i need to upgrade the final drive on the MTX75 from 4.06 to 4.6.... i will loose the top speed but gain more acceleration....

cost breakdown

the reason i choose ford gearbox (MTX75) over mazda3s (G35M) are because of this comparison.... (all prices are rough conversion using www.xe.com)

ford focus MTX75:
-------------------------------------------------
$750AUD - secondhand, comes with clutch, flywheel, ribcaging, 2 shaft, bigger center inputshaft.
$940AUD - QUAIFE LSD 1.5way
$990AUD - 4.62 QUAIFE final drive
$330AUD - 2 custom poly mounts (under battery and rear mount)
$400AUD - custom driveshaft (probably billet)
$150AUD - nitride treatment
$800AUD - clutch and flywheel
$200AUD - gear adapter plate custom made by CNC
---------------------
$4560AUD total stronger gearbox, more options and cheaper aftermarket support, shorter gear ratio


Mazda3 G35M:
--------------------------------------------------
$2000AUD - secondhand, gearbox only, smoother and well spaced gearing (except for 3rd gear), no ribcaging, and smaller input shaft
$1810AUD - QUAIFE LSD 1.5way
$1500AUD - KAAZ custom 4.58 final drive
$200AUD - 1 custom poly mount (i only need to custom the under battery)
$250AUD - driveshaft replacement
$150AUD - nitride treatment
-----------------------
$5910AUD total and i still need to spend extra $$$ to strengthen the gearbox which is still dont know how....


also MTX75 is being used on Mazda3 in Group N rally by Burmeister Rallysport, on drag race mazda3 by GoldenEagle, also being used on mazda6 touring car by tri-point engineering. altough the main reason they choose mtx75 is because of the aftermarket support...

im just hoping if i can successfuly do this conversion, it will be a good options and solutions for other mazda3 modifier...


NB: i dont have to do the LSD, and final drive.... but since im gonna open my gearbox, i thought mind as well...

gearbox alt research...

UPDATE:

1. pressure plate on mazda3 has mazda part number and ford part number but on the ford focus pressure plate, its only has ford part number. so mazda3 press plate is fine to be fitted on ford flywheel... but not the otherway around...

2. ford flywheel and mazda3's flywheel are almost the same but not identical. ford have different side gear pattern which mean if im gonna use ford focus flywheel, i will have to use ford starter motors...

3. after looking at the bell housing bolt pattern... MTX75 and G35M has 4 bolts which has the same position but the others are different... so i will have to get a 1cm thick adapter plate to be cut by CNC and put it in between the engine and the ford bell housing....

4. the input shaft of the mazda3s and ford focus also different which made our clutch have different center ring (ford MTX75 is 4mm thicker)... the rest of the clutch are the same... so i got 2 options: 1 - swap the center ring (easier option but not the safest one) or 2 use focus's clutch which mean i have to sell my mazdaspeed clutch

i will post some pics when soon

5. the top passenger side mount are the same center shape (where the gearbox bolts up) but different bolt pattern that mount to under battery holder.... this can easily done by either drill new mount holes on the battery holder or make and adapter plate...

6. the rear engine mount is the same position (the one that mount to the chasis) but different holding pattern (the one that hold the gearbox)... i can use focus rear engine mount but i need to modify the holding point on the chassis... (ford focus engine mount are 3.5mm thicker)

i've bought the MTX75 gearbox... and today i just bought the top and rear engine mount for focus and the starter motors from a wrecker....

thats all so far.... will keep u guys updated...

the end of my gearbox... again... :(

ok... to cut the story short... i broke my gearbox last december, fixed it and then blew my gearbox on the drag day.

yes... this is my second time.... few months ago i did 15.4sec and broke my 3rd gear....

this time basically the 2 top engine mounts broke.... and the one under the battery snapped.... must've been after the burnouts.... i didnt realise... then after that, when i launched, the gearbox just pop on the second gear... no internal gear was broken, but the cage is cracked open and i guess the engine on angle give stress to the gearbox and driveshaft which appearently also snapped....

damage report: gearbox have hole, drive shaft snapped, 1 engine mount snapped, 2 others engine mount broken, fan shroud broken / get hit by the engine, selector link snapped... thats all i can find atm.... hopefully no more...

after doing some research, the closest design to mazda3 gearbox (G35M-R) is the MTX-75 gearbox from ford focus.... i bought the australian version... with 4.06 final drive... planning to put KAAZ or QUAIFE LSD in it too... ford MTX75 has Rib cage and stronger built... but the mazda3's gear ratio is better.... (but ford MTX75 can be easily upgraded to QUAIFE gear set)

i'll convert to MTX75 (ford focus gearbox) and hopefully it will hold better... maybe its not mazda3's gearbox fault.... its me who probably cant drive properly...

i'm starting the conversion next month... in the mean time, im just gathering info and inputs... please give me as much info as possible and please let me know if you have any suggestions or other possibilities... and i'll keep you guys imformed...




if you look at the pic... the mount that snapped are not the rear one... but the big top left mount under the battery holder....



appearently that top left engine mount snapped then drop the engine on angle.... and the driveshaft also on angle... and then pressure build to the gearbox then BOOM!

i started researching abit last night.... the bolt pattern are not the same.... and the MTX75 are bigger than the G35M-R.... but the MTX75 built are more solid with rib caging....

i need to custom the driveshaft... i probably had to make billet one... and custom the engine mount too...

i've got the gearbox + flywheel + clutch + 4.06 final drive ratio for $750AUD (secondhand from a local junkyard) thats cheaper than $2000AUD secondhand mazda3 gearbox.... so i have to make this conversion work...

also the LSD for MTX75 is alot cheaper than the LSD for mazda G35M-R...

finally 15flat down 400m

just did my 400m run on the last EXE drag day....



my best run was:
60ft: 2.3437 sec (i did 2.145sec on my 15.2sec run)
330ft: 6.3703 sec
660ft: 9.7352 sec @ 73.58 mph
1000ft: 12.6061 sec
400m ET: 15.0771 sec @ 108.88 mph

mod: AEM CAI, Draxas - modified 2inch primary + straight pipe, rear seat + spare tyre off, bridgestone RE070, mazdaspeed HD clutch, EXEDY flywheel....

i did 15.25, 15.12, and 15.07 that day.... was gonna go for my last run, aiming for 14.9 with a better 60ft

i think the MPH is wrong.... i cant be doing that fast and being only 15sec.... so dont worry about the mph....

race pipe... :)

well, following visage's advice and silver_slug path.... i custom made 2.5 mandrel bent race pipe....

and i had to put flange on my one piece 2.5 system to make it swapable for the drag and track day....

here it is...


its sticking out from the left hand side...


here is the connection from the whole system...


and got a make minor bent to avoid touching under body...


its sounds awesome!!!! and loud... lol... i think i'm gonna need ear plug on the next track day.... vroooooooooooooooooooooooooooom yeehaaaa

Rim whoring? :P

have tried 6 different secondhand 18inch inch wheels so far... none has enough clearance.... well, i know i can always buy a new one that fits... but dont want to spend that much....

now... finally get one that can fit my brake kit... its an rx8 wheels...

im gonna drive up to ACT to pick it up woohooo...

thx for missyK for dropping her rims to my place for test fitting.... i dont want to drive all the way to ACT to find out that the wheel dont fit... lol...



but then i decided not to get the RX8 rims (getting the 18inch from paul instead),

but now i need a lighter 17inch wheels for track....

my current 17inch is light but not that light.... then i came across this wheels... brought it brand new, cheap, on sale... its a Rota wheels... i chose gun metal center piece coz i dont really like the shape of the rims... so i thought dark colour might hide it abit...

i dont like the shape but it fits my wilwood brake and its light... oh well... i guess i can live with that.... this gonna be my track wheels...


and here is the pics with paul's CE28 style rims...
its not original but still very light... only 7.5kg each.... thx paul!

DYNO, 109.7kw atw! :)

just finish dyno at protek last saturday...

here are my current one... 109.7 kw - 17inch, AEM CAI, 2.5inch catback, 4-1 header, advanced ignition timing...



here my previous one with:
BLUE run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and hi flow cat - 98.8 kw
RED run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and race pipe (replace the cat) - 105.7 kw


this is my very first dyno... found it when i dug up my old dyno sheet...
BLUE run: 18inch wheel, De-restricted airbox, 2.25inch catback - 100.1 kw
RED run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and hi flow cat - 98.8 kw

i just realise the de-resticted airbox gives more max killowatt than AEM CAI.... oh well... AEM prettier.... hehehe jk... AEM CAI definitely have more advantage... if you notice... the AEM CAI gives way better and stronger curves across rev range... so max kw maybe a little bit lower... but across the rev range, CAI wins over de-restricted airbox....

PHASE 2 - DIY CENTER DASH GAUGE POD completed

well well... couldnt sleep last night... so i ended spending 4 hour sanding and 2 hour painting... feel like zombie now...

lets start....

i apply plasti-bond that i bought on bunnings to the gap between the 2 panels.... and also on the gauge holder (coz its surface have texture and i dont like it....) and scrape the excess...



then i start sanding... start with 60 grit, 150, 400, and then 800... u dont need to do this.... but i just want a perfect surface ^_^ its good for painting foundation...



now, test fitting before painting



and start painting.... i use that light to warm it up, coz its bloody cold atm...

and keep sanding between layer using fine 1200 grit.... i put about 6 thin layers...
i use this anti-glare matt black paint...


now before the final layer... i sand the whole thing with 2000grit... and the result was amazingly smooth!!!

finished painting...


colour matched, texture matched...


and i know its annoying, but colour is very important to me... so i spray my light silver gauge ring to the darker silver... closer to mazda3 silver interior hi-light


and FINISHED!!




now i just need to learn how to hook up those bloody gauges.... any hint?