healing process begins

refunded the ford shifter... i found a way to just use and modify the mazda3 shifter.... all i need is a welder....

anyway.... updates on MERAH:

progress: 10%
Duration: 14 hours (4 nights)

night 1 (2 hours)

1. Received the engine crane from Adelaide
   
2. assemble the crane base and wheels
   

night 2 (4 hours)

1. assemble the crane top
   
2. assemble the engine stand
   

night 3 (4 hours)

1. Jack up the car, hold the car with axle stand
   
2. take of all the wheels
   
3. take off the front bumper
   
4. take off the hood
   
5. use the crane to lift the engine abit and hold it (2 out of 3 engine mounts are broken, so engine was on angle)
   
6. take off the intake pipe
   
7. take off the oil catch can
   

night 4 (4 hours)

1. take off the 2 main fuel lines
   
2. take off the strut bar
   
3. take off the wiper and plastic cowl
   
4. take off the battery and ECU
   
5. take off the accelerator cable and cruise control
   
6. take off the under body splash guard
   
7. take off TOP LEFT engine mount (it was in pieces)
   

thx to: mark/cully5 for sitting around, smoking, finish my coke and calling me stoopid... jk bro.... thx for the help...

shifting mechanism and research update

UPDATE:

i had to use ford focus shifter mechanism and shifter cable

mazda3 1st, 3rd, 5th gear => "push" mechanism
mazda3 2nd, 4th, reverse => "pull" mechanism

but for ford focus is the other way around....

MTX75 gearbox with ford focus shifter... it will be 1-3-5 push in.... but MTX75 gearbox with mazda3 shifter will be 1-3-5 pull in...

REASON:

Ford focus shifter -> the 'shift' point is under the center pivot ball

so when you push the stick forward... everything under the center pivot ball move backward... so the shift point actually pulling the cable to enter 1st gear....

and the MAZDA3 shifter -> the 'shift' point is above the center pivot ball.... so when you push the stick forward.... the 'shift' point which is above the center pivot point also move forward....


so if i use mazda3 shifter on ford MTX75 gearbox, i will get this pattern:
2 4 R
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
1 3 5

lol its kinda cool but its gonna be hard to get used to....


probably its best to explain it with this pics....






so i have to use ford focus shifter.... and im searching for it atm....

gear ratio comparison

i got this Gear Ratio Calculator from QUAIFE and calculated the stock Mazda3 gearbox and the stock Ford Focus gearbox... the comparison is based on my 18 daily driven wheel and 7000rpm shift point....


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gearbox:- G35M-R (mazda3)
Tyre:- 225/40/18
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st - 3.307
2nd - 1.842
3rd - 1.310
4th - 0.970
5th - 0.755
Reverse - 3.166
Final drive - 4.388
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top Gear gives 36.254 KPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 253.779 KPH at 7000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
40 KPH = 1103 RPM 50 KPH = 1379 KPM 60 KPH = 1655 RPM 80 KPH = 2207 RPM
100 KPH = 2758 RPM 110 KPH = 3034 RPM 130 KPH = 3586 RPM 160 KPH = 4413 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 57.939 KPH
And changes into 2 gear at 3899 RPM dropping 3101 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 104.019 KPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4978 RPM dropping 2022 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 146.262 KPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5183 RPM dropping 1817 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 197.529 KPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5448 RPM dropping 1552 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 253.779 KPH
******************************************************************************************




-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gearbox:- MTX75 (ford focus)
Tyre:- 225/40/18
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1st: 3.42
2nd: 2.14
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.03
5th: 0.77
Final Drive: 4.06
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top Gear gives 38.570 KPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 269.991 KPH at 7000 RPM

Engine speeds in top gear:-
40 KPH = 1037 RPM 50 KPH = 1296 KPM 60 KPH = 1556 RPM 80 KPH = 2074 RPM
100 KPH = 2593 RPM 110 KPH = 2852 RPM 130 KPH = 3370 RPM 160 KPH = 4148 RPM

Top Speed in 1 gear = 60.604 KPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4376 RPM dropping 2624 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 96.949 KPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4745 RPM dropping 2255 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 143.013 KPH
And changes into 4 gear at 4970 RPM dropping 2030 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 201.442 KPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5223 RPM dropping 1777 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 269.991 KPH
******************************************************************************************


atm the MTX75 is shorter ratio, which what i want, but the final drive is too low.... which make the top speed too high....

i dont really need top speed. this is why i need to upgrade the final drive on the MTX75 from 4.06 to 4.6.... i will loose the top speed but gain more acceleration....

cost breakdown

the reason i choose ford gearbox (MTX75) over mazda3s (G35M) are because of this comparison.... (all prices are rough conversion using www.xe.com)

ford focus MTX75:
-------------------------------------------------
$750AUD - secondhand, comes with clutch, flywheel, ribcaging, 2 shaft, bigger center inputshaft.
$940AUD - QUAIFE LSD 1.5way
$990AUD - 4.62 QUAIFE final drive
$330AUD - 2 custom poly mounts (under battery and rear mount)
$400AUD - custom driveshaft (probably billet)
$150AUD - nitride treatment
$800AUD - clutch and flywheel
$200AUD - gear adapter plate custom made by CNC
---------------------
$4560AUD total stronger gearbox, more options and cheaper aftermarket support, shorter gear ratio


Mazda3 G35M:
--------------------------------------------------
$2000AUD - secondhand, gearbox only, smoother and well spaced gearing (except for 3rd gear), no ribcaging, and smaller input shaft
$1810AUD - QUAIFE LSD 1.5way
$1500AUD - KAAZ custom 4.58 final drive
$200AUD - 1 custom poly mount (i only need to custom the under battery)
$250AUD - driveshaft replacement
$150AUD - nitride treatment
-----------------------
$5910AUD total and i still need to spend extra $$$ to strengthen the gearbox which is still dont know how....


also MTX75 is being used on Mazda3 in Group N rally by Burmeister Rallysport, on drag race mazda3 by GoldenEagle, also being used on mazda6 touring car by tri-point engineering. altough the main reason they choose mtx75 is because of the aftermarket support...

im just hoping if i can successfuly do this conversion, it will be a good options and solutions for other mazda3 modifier...


NB: i dont have to do the LSD, and final drive.... but since im gonna open my gearbox, i thought mind as well...

gearbox alt research...

UPDATE:

1. pressure plate on mazda3 has mazda part number and ford part number but on the ford focus pressure plate, its only has ford part number. so mazda3 press plate is fine to be fitted on ford flywheel... but not the otherway around...

2. ford flywheel and mazda3's flywheel are almost the same but not identical. ford have different side gear pattern which mean if im gonna use ford focus flywheel, i will have to use ford starter motors...

3. after looking at the bell housing bolt pattern... MTX75 and G35M has 4 bolts which has the same position but the others are different... so i will have to get a 1cm thick adapter plate to be cut by CNC and put it in between the engine and the ford bell housing....

4. the input shaft of the mazda3s and ford focus also different which made our clutch have different center ring (ford MTX75 is 4mm thicker)... the rest of the clutch are the same... so i got 2 options: 1 - swap the center ring (easier option but not the safest one) or 2 use focus's clutch which mean i have to sell my mazdaspeed clutch

i will post some pics when soon

5. the top passenger side mount are the same center shape (where the gearbox bolts up) but different bolt pattern that mount to under battery holder.... this can easily done by either drill new mount holes on the battery holder or make and adapter plate...

6. the rear engine mount is the same position (the one that mount to the chasis) but different holding pattern (the one that hold the gearbox)... i can use focus rear engine mount but i need to modify the holding point on the chassis... (ford focus engine mount are 3.5mm thicker)

i've bought the MTX75 gearbox... and today i just bought the top and rear engine mount for focus and the starter motors from a wrecker....

thats all so far.... will keep u guys updated...

the end of my gearbox... again... :(

ok... to cut the story short... i broke my gearbox last december, fixed it and then blew my gearbox on the drag day.

yes... this is my second time.... few months ago i did 15.4sec and broke my 3rd gear....

this time basically the 2 top engine mounts broke.... and the one under the battery snapped.... must've been after the burnouts.... i didnt realise... then after that, when i launched, the gearbox just pop on the second gear... no internal gear was broken, but the cage is cracked open and i guess the engine on angle give stress to the gearbox and driveshaft which appearently also snapped....

damage report: gearbox have hole, drive shaft snapped, 1 engine mount snapped, 2 others engine mount broken, fan shroud broken / get hit by the engine, selector link snapped... thats all i can find atm.... hopefully no more...

after doing some research, the closest design to mazda3 gearbox (G35M-R) is the MTX-75 gearbox from ford focus.... i bought the australian version... with 4.06 final drive... planning to put KAAZ or QUAIFE LSD in it too... ford MTX75 has Rib cage and stronger built... but the mazda3's gear ratio is better.... (but ford MTX75 can be easily upgraded to QUAIFE gear set)

i'll convert to MTX75 (ford focus gearbox) and hopefully it will hold better... maybe its not mazda3's gearbox fault.... its me who probably cant drive properly...

i'm starting the conversion next month... in the mean time, im just gathering info and inputs... please give me as much info as possible and please let me know if you have any suggestions or other possibilities... and i'll keep you guys imformed...




if you look at the pic... the mount that snapped are not the rear one... but the big top left mount under the battery holder....



appearently that top left engine mount snapped then drop the engine on angle.... and the driveshaft also on angle... and then pressure build to the gearbox then BOOM!

i started researching abit last night.... the bolt pattern are not the same.... and the MTX75 are bigger than the G35M-R.... but the MTX75 built are more solid with rib caging....

i need to custom the driveshaft... i probably had to make billet one... and custom the engine mount too...

i've got the gearbox + flywheel + clutch + 4.06 final drive ratio for $750AUD (secondhand from a local junkyard) thats cheaper than $2000AUD secondhand mazda3 gearbox.... so i have to make this conversion work...

also the LSD for MTX75 is alot cheaper than the LSD for mazda G35M-R...

finally 15flat down 400m

just did my 400m run on the last EXE drag day....



my best run was:
60ft: 2.3437 sec (i did 2.145sec on my 15.2sec run)
330ft: 6.3703 sec
660ft: 9.7352 sec @ 73.58 mph
1000ft: 12.6061 sec
400m ET: 15.0771 sec @ 108.88 mph

mod: AEM CAI, Draxas - modified 2inch primary + straight pipe, rear seat + spare tyre off, bridgestone RE070, mazdaspeed HD clutch, EXEDY flywheel....

i did 15.25, 15.12, and 15.07 that day.... was gonna go for my last run, aiming for 14.9 with a better 60ft

i think the MPH is wrong.... i cant be doing that fast and being only 15sec.... so dont worry about the mph....

race pipe... :)

well, following visage's advice and silver_slug path.... i custom made 2.5 mandrel bent race pipe....

and i had to put flange on my one piece 2.5 system to make it swapable for the drag and track day....

here it is...


its sticking out from the left hand side...


here is the connection from the whole system...


and got a make minor bent to avoid touching under body...


its sounds awesome!!!! and loud... lol... i think i'm gonna need ear plug on the next track day.... vroooooooooooooooooooooooooooom yeehaaaa

Rim whoring? :P

have tried 6 different secondhand 18inch inch wheels so far... none has enough clearance.... well, i know i can always buy a new one that fits... but dont want to spend that much....

now... finally get one that can fit my brake kit... its an rx8 wheels...

im gonna drive up to ACT to pick it up woohooo...

thx for missyK for dropping her rims to my place for test fitting.... i dont want to drive all the way to ACT to find out that the wheel dont fit... lol...



but then i decided not to get the RX8 rims (getting the 18inch from paul instead),

but now i need a lighter 17inch wheels for track....

my current 17inch is light but not that light.... then i came across this wheels... brought it brand new, cheap, on sale... its a Rota wheels... i chose gun metal center piece coz i dont really like the shape of the rims... so i thought dark colour might hide it abit...

i dont like the shape but it fits my wilwood brake and its light... oh well... i guess i can live with that.... this gonna be my track wheels...


and here is the pics with paul's CE28 style rims...
its not original but still very light... only 7.5kg each.... thx paul!

DYNO, 109.7kw atw! :)

just finish dyno at protek last saturday...

here are my current one... 109.7 kw - 17inch, AEM CAI, 2.5inch catback, 4-1 header, advanced ignition timing...



here my previous one with:
BLUE run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and hi flow cat - 98.8 kw
RED run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and race pipe (replace the cat) - 105.7 kw


this is my very first dyno... found it when i dug up my old dyno sheet...
BLUE run: 18inch wheel, De-restricted airbox, 2.25inch catback - 100.1 kw
RED run: 18inch wheel, AEM CAI, 2.25inch catback, and hi flow cat - 98.8 kw

i just realise the de-resticted airbox gives more max killowatt than AEM CAI.... oh well... AEM prettier.... hehehe jk... AEM CAI definitely have more advantage... if you notice... the AEM CAI gives way better and stronger curves across rev range... so max kw maybe a little bit lower... but across the rev range, CAI wins over de-restricted airbox....