DIY RSR Titanium Spring Installation

DIY Spring Installation
bought the lowered spring RS-R Ti2000 just few days before the trackday...
spec:
Design: Linear
F Drop: 15mm (.6in)
R Drop: 15mm (.6in)
F Stiffness: 6.2kg/mm (345lb) (+10%)
R Stiffness: 7.5kg/mm (417lb) (+22%)
Stiffness transfer: 12% to Rear
Notes: Ti2000 is titanium spring. its really light compared to the OEM spring or the RS-R basic...

i like this spring coz it doesnt drop the car too low... im scraping everywhere already with stock spring...

1. jack up the car, sit it on four jack stand...
   
   
   
2. remove the wheels
   
   
3. start from the easiest one... rear spring... 350z has multi link setup at rear so i dont need to remove the suspension...
   
   remove the bolt holding the arm (jack up the suspension arm abit to release the tension so that you wont strip the bolt), and press the arm down using a metal bar or something like that (towards the red arrow direction... )
   
   
4. you should have enough space to remover the spring from the 'pocket'... take of the rubber top cone and fit in on the new spring. fit in in reverse order and torque the bolt back to the manufacturer specs
   
   
5. now the front suspension removal
   
   use to ratchet to unbolt the main arm bolt (the bolt that connect the suspension and the main control arm). jack up the bottom of the arm abit to release the tension (preventing you stripping the bolt)
   
   
   
6. detached the brake line from the suspension
   
   
   
7. detached the speed sensor from the suspension
   
   
   
8. remove the swaybar link bolts from the suspension arm (its the one next to the suspension bolt)
   
   use rubber mallet to knock the bolt out, should be easy... if its stuck, dont push it... try jacking up the suspension arm to release the tension...
   
   
   
9. now... if you dont want to use spring compressor to remove the suspension, you can do what i did... i remove the 'A' arm link...
   first remove the safety clip... (its bent, so straighten it and pull it out...)
   
   
   then just unbolt it normally...
   
   
   
10. remove the sturt mount top bolts... 3 of them... careful not to strip them *look at shaun (-_-)*
    
    
    
11. now you can press the whole lower suspension arms down by holding to the 'A' arm connector... pres it down firmly and the strut should have enough space to come out... careful not get tangled with the brake line...
    
    
    
12. now that the suspension off, if you have spring compressor, compress the spring and the remove the top bolts on... remember to mark the top and bottom position so it can be installed back easily...
    
    i didnt have spring compressor, so i bring it to PROTEK tyres for them to swap the spring for me... they made it look so easy...
    
    
13. anyway, install in reverse order... i cbf writing anymore

DIY CUSTOM OIL COOLER - PART 2

DIY CUSTOM OIL COOLER - PART 2

continue from the PART 1: http://silasba.blogspot.com/2006/10/diy-custom-oil-cooler-part-1.html

• 19 rows alluminium cooler for $54AUD shipped...
  
  
• and this sandwich plate for $90AUD shipped...
  
  
• 2 metres of -10an Aeroquip Socketless Hose ($24.95AUD)
  
• 2x 90 degree -10an and 2xstraight -10an socketless fitting (2 on the oil cooler, 2 connected to the fittings on the sandwhich plate) ($55.00AUD)
  
• plumber's tape at all connections. (forget the price, but dirt cheap)
  

its pretty straight forward...
DIY Oil Cooler

1. its better to do it when you are changing the engine oil so that you dont waste any oil... and less messy...
   
2. jack up the car and remove the bumper
   
3. drain the oil like usual, and put the drain plug back (with new washer) after u finish drainning
   
4. remove the oil filter
   
5. put the sandwich plate to the oil filter mount and screw it on...
   
6. mount the oil filter on the sandwich plate. make sure you got the right filter size... double check with the adapter that you got from the sandwich plate...
   
7. connect the hose to the connector (this is very hard... lol), and remember to put plumber's tape on all screw-in connector between the sandwich plate and the hose.
   
8. find a place to mount the oil cooler. make sure you mount it securely, no shake. this is important coz if you break the oil cooler, your oil will be all over the place and you are running the risk of damaging your engine...
   
9. connect the hose to the oil cooler. remember to put the plumber's tape
   
10. fill up the car with extra 0.5 to 1 liter oil
    
11. jack the car down, and start the car... let it warm up and then turn it off... check the oil level 5 min later... and top up if necessary...
    
12. check for any oil leaks on the connector... and regular check for the next few days... better safe than sorry...
    

this is where i mount mine... thx for shaun for painting it black... its more subtle... i like



this it the L bracket for it




the sandwich plate + filter + hose connector



more pics of how i set it up...

TIME ATTACK style! :P

ok... now back to ricer mode... what a nice weekend with nice weather. shaun, jason, jally, kenny and me got itchy hand so we decided to did some garage frenzy... we did kenny's oil, jason's gearbox oil, shaun's tyres and my wheels...

thx to shaun for painting most of the wheels lol and thx for jase for driving me to get more paint... thx to kenny and jally for the 'dancing' stripe effects... (-_-)

we started with gun metal, but shaun's fart made it look green... so we put matt black on top and put lots and lots of clear gloss coat... lol....

DIY Custom Headlight PART 1

DIY Custom Headlight PART 1

i pick up this twins on ebay last week and i will use them for my low beam




its still a long way to go... im still researching on the right hi beam projector, the spare headlight casing and also trying to figure out the wiring diagram

its a start... hope i didnt take too long to finish this

Dunlop Semis for april

Dunlop Semis for april...

i just pick up 2 x 225/45/17 second hand semis to replace my front 2 tyres...



this dunlop rated as high as RE55... but only one way to find out

RICER FTW!!!! ^_^

PART 1: DIY/Custom AERO mirror

RICE MODE: ON... lol... supposedly aero dynamic mirror... supposedly (yeah right)

anyway... price is low, looks good... so i decided to get one...

but i dont like the fake CF pattern and the indicator on it... so i will paint the whole thing is RED or Black...

1. the fugly mirror


2. take the mirror of... pop it out with using screw driver slipped in the gap... be gentle... not to break the mirror... use common sense...


3. pull them apart...


4. pull the built in indicator apart... i will reuse this someday.... but at this stage i wont need it... i only need the outer transparent plastic to fill the hole on the mirror casing back...


5. put the transparent plastic back in the mirror casing's hole and glue it on there...


6. here is the current look... and on the PART2 i will show how i want to make it all the same color... i will use some putty to cover the gap between the casing and the transparent plastic...
so for now PART 1 is just pulling them apart and remove all the LED wiring... btw, this mirror is fully motorize... although i am not sure how long the china made mirror motor gonna last huahaha